Identifying Age Spots and Sun Spots

As time goes on, we start to notice brown spots and freckles — “souvenirs of Florida” — on the backs of our hands and on other sun exposed areas like the upper chest and face. At first these brown spots are small and light colored, but eventually they become a cosmetic problem — an obvious sign of premature aging of the skin because of ultraviolet damage from sun exposure or from tanning beds.

By using modern high-SPF sunscreens like Ombrelle-60™ or Anthelios-60™ we can safely enjoy outdoor activities like gardening, golf and boating, and greatly reduce the rate at which our skin deteriorates. Patients who get into the habit of applying Retisol-A 0.01% cream (a prescription product which combines a retinoid and an SPF-15 sunscreen) to their faces every morning will usually see a considerable improvement in the appearance of their skin after 1-2 years, and if treatment is continued long-term patients will notice that their skin ages more slowly.

Hats and sun protective clothing can also slow down the rate at which “age spots” appear – and also reduce the chance that we will develop skin cancer. You can learn more about how to prevent sun damage, learn about the early warning signs of skin cancer and see photos of typical skin cancers at Skin Cancer Guide.ca.

The early warning signs of skin cancer include:

* new and unusual growths on the skin
* moles and freckles which have unusual colors or mixtures of colors
* moles and freckles with irregular borders
* growths on the skin which bleed, or which form an open sore which does not heal within a few weeks.

It is not too late for those of us who already have sun spots and age spots. I have seen many patients who had sun damage improve gradually over a period of 3-5 years simply in response to daily sun protection. For those who want more rapid and complete improvement in their sun damaged skin, one or two treatments with the Medlite™ laser can fade or eliminate brown “age spots” on the face, chest and hands within a few weeks.

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) treatments, for example with the Cutera Xeo-600, can be used in cases where there is a background of tiny freckles and brown discoloration – sometimes erasing 20 years of irregular pigment with a series of 20 minute treatments! Where there is severe sun damage or when a person wishes the most rapid improvement (for example, if a daughter is getting married in two months) a medicine called Levulan™ is applied to the skin for one hour before treatment with the Cutera Xeo-600. Levulan™ is absorbed by cells in the skin which are misbehaving, and then is activated by light from the Xeo-600. The abnormal cells are shed from the skin over a period of 1-2 weeks, revealing fresher, healthier skin – and giving the patient a “fresh start”. What ever the type of spot – if you have concerns, or if you see changes in its appearance, it is important that you have it inspected by your family physician or dermatologist.

Treating Blackheads with Zinc Oxide

Eliminate blackheads and whiteheads

Blackheads are tiny, dark spots caused by a small plug in the opening of a follicle (pore) on the skin. Blackheads are also called open comedomes. A blackhead is a type of acne vulgaris. It is caused by excess oils that have accumulated in the sebaceous gland ’s duct. Blackheads are typically caused by excessive oil and makeup, which can facilitate the multiplication of the bacterium propionibacterium acnes, the predominant anaerobe of the normal skin flora. The substance found in these bumps mostly consists of keratin and modified sebum (an oily secretion of the sebaceous gland ), which darkens (resembling dirt) as it oxidizes.

If you suffer from blackheads or whiteheads and need to know which products are best. Look for non-comedogenic products - they are less likely to cause blackheads (called open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones). Most brands of make-up are non-comedogenic, which means they won’t clog your pores. If your skin is prone to acne or especially sensitive, try to find products that are non-comedogenic, oil-free (water-based), hypoallergenic (unlikely to cause an allergic reaction) and fragrance free. It may be helpful to remove make-up before exercise, as the products can travel across the face through sweat and clog your pores. However, since no product is non-comedogenic for everybody, it’s a good idea to first test any new product on a small area of your own skin.

Blackheads are the slightly different sibling of pimples, and like pimples, squeezing them can be damaging. Composed of the same oil, or sebum, that contributes to the production of pimples, blackheads result from a building up of this oil in pores. The difference in appearance than that of a pimple is the result of the blackhead’s exposure to the air. The oxidation (or darkening)  of the the oil causes the trademark black color of these blemishes.

While blackheads are more easily obscured by makeup, they can seem less offensive to the sufferer, and as a result, less damaging to squeeze. But squeezing is not good for blackheads. It can leave a permanent scar on skin and also leaves your skin open to infection. Comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) are caused by the densely packed skin cells. Comedones, commonly appear on the face and shoulders, but they may also develop on the trunk, arms, legs, and buttocks. They are most common in teenagers but can occur at any age, even in infants.

Treatment for whiteheads and blackheads depends on the severity of the condition. Treatment may include lotions or gels placed on blemishes or sometimes entire areas of skin, such as the chest or back (topical medications). Oral medications, such as antibiotics, may be prescribed.

Causes of Blackheads

Blackheads are caused when excess skin oil, sebum and congesting toxins are expelled through your skin from the blood and lymph fluid that supplies your skin with nutrients. These congesting toxins combined with skin oil and sebum clogs your pores causing blackheads, whiteheads, and full blown acne. Dirt also plays a big role in developing skin blackheads. The dirt stored on the face or other parts of body help the bacteria to develop.

Symptoms of Blackheads

Blackheads and whiteheads are a combination of oils, sebum and cellular fragments that form firm to hard plugs within hair follicles. Blackheads are open to the skin’s surface and become darkened at the surface by exposure to oxygen (oxidation). They are called open comedones (or comedo, singular). Whiteheads are closed from the skin’s surface by cellular debris at the follicle opening. Because they are closed from oxygen they do not oxidize or turn brown. They form a light or yellow-white lump and are called milia (or milium, singular). When bacteria is added to these plugs, the condition can lead to acne.

Treatment of of Blackheads

Mild cases of acne can be self-treated with over-the-counter topicals (applied to the skin) creams typically with benzoyl peroxide. Zinc Oxide is also a safe natural alternative to reduce infections. There are also a variety of different medications that your family physician might prescribe that come as creams, ointments, and pills. Some of the stronger medications for acne are not to be used if you are pregnant, so make sure you tell your doctor if this is a possibility. Most acne medications work by reducing the next “crop” of acne, so don’t get discouraged if the treatment does not work right away.

Home Remedy for Blackheads
1. In 3-4 cup boiled water, add 2 tsp of soda bicarbonate. Steam a towel with this. Thereafter, place the towel gently on your face. Do it for about 5-6 times. Make a paste by mixing 1 tsp curd and 1 tsp rice flour.  Apply the paste on the affected area. After some time, wash your face with cold water.

2. Take about 1 tsp of juice extracted from fresh coriander leaves and add ½ tsp of turmeric powder in it. Apply this mixture while going to bed. Wash your face the next morning with cold water.

3. Take a pinch of soft portion of glycerin soap and mix with a pinch of table salt. Apply this mixture on the blackheads. Do it for about a week and see the magical results.

4. Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzyl peroxide, etc. can be counter-productive to softening and dissolving blackheads and whiteheads as they can dehydrate dry, normal and combination skin

5. Make a paste by mixing 1 tsp limejuice and 1 tsp of finely powdered cinnamon. Apply it on the affected area before going to bed. Wash it off in the morning.

When looking over other strategies on how to remove blackheads, you want to make sure that you are not using your fingernails to squeeze. Your fingernails could be loaded with all kinds of bacteria, which could cause infections. If you do decide to squeeze, make sure you are properly cleaning and sterilizing your hands or using a tissue, to reduce the risk of infection.

Exercise caution. Squeezing a blackhead too much or too soon may lead to the rupturing of a blood vessel. Even though this is a rare occurrence, it can still happen. If you find this happening to you, do not continue to squeeze the blackhead because you may make it worse.

Guidlines for Zinc Oxide to Treat Acne

There has been a lot of press recently about Zinc and Zinc Oxide in skincare and cosmetic products. Zinc can be found in many natural sunscreens ans well as moisturizing lotions and creams.  Zinc - or Micronized zinc oxide -  is produced by high temperature processing of minerals that contain zinc. Some brands contain micronized zinc oxide, combined with an inert ingredient derived from silica. The result is a naturally protective product to protect you from the sun’s damaging UV and UVB rays.

Zinc is a mineral and it is also believed that it has curative properties on a skin where there are acne growths and can reduce the symptoms of acne. Many alternative studies have indicated that this is not the case. So is there a connection between the two?

According to research carried out in recent years, zinc has the same properties of antibiotics such as tetracycline and it can fight the acne bacteria efficiently without the negative effects of antibiotics. Reportedly, zinc also enhances the immunity of the body when ingested as a supplement. So what is zinc and what is the zinc acne connection all about? How does the zinc acne treatment affect the sufferers and what is the best way to use this treatment?

You will find traces of the zinc mineral in various food items such as mushrooms, soybeans, legumes, fish, sunflower seeds, egg yolks, soy lecithin and also in whole grains. Zinc is also present in many herbs such as dandelion, eyebright, cayenne, chamomile, mullein, nettle, milk thistle, alfalfa and in the burdock root. Zinc forms a part of insulin and can be found in the tissues.

There are many useful properties of zinc like providing the person with energy, prohibiting blindness, aiding the process of digestion by being a part of enzymes, supporting the reaction of more than 30 enzymes, strengthening the immunity, regulation of Vitamin E in the blood, helping the body absorb Vitamin A and B, speeding up the process of healing, regulating insulin, and it also fights bacteria. Zinc is also present in estrogen, testosterone and growth hormones.

So how does zinc help a person suffering from acne?  Zinc moisturizers and sunscreens may be a good first step to taking care of your skin from the outside.

The causes of acne are all internal and they are imbalance in the level of hormones and build up toxic materials within the body. The hormones are responsible for producing oils, and the zinc can regulate the oil glands, and so if you can take them correctly (that is in the right quantity, quality and the correct essential fatty acids) you will be able to have some control over the level of hormones and this will ease the symptoms of your acne greatly.

Zinc also helps absorb Vitamin A, and fights the bacteria that causes acne by strengthening the immune system, helps the body heal wounds and contains anti oxidant properties. All these are useful in tackling the secondary causes of acne and will help you greatly reduce the symptoms of acne.

Another ability of zinc for acne is that it can regulate the production of hormones, which is a main reason one acquires acne. However for this to happen, it needs to be taken in the correct quantity and in combination with essential fatty acids. This mineral needs to be properly absorbed within the body and work together with other nutrients for the hormones to be balanced.

While zinc as an acne treatment may be effective, it is very important however to take care and not mix it with some chemical substances, supplements and food items because they will make the zinc less effective.  You should always consult your doctor or research a supplement before taking any internal treatments.

There are some food items, ( inhibitors) like supplements and physical conditions that can prevent zinc from being properly absorbed in the body. This may significantly reduce the impact of zinc on the acne.

One of these inhibitors is Phytic acid.  Usually found in high levels in grains. The acid can reduce the absorption by about 15%.  And thus, those who are suffering from acne need to reduce their grain consumption to one to two servings a day. Grains may lead to mucus and acidity and taking them with zinc for acne can be a challenge.

Another zinc inhibitor is soy protein. If you are using zinc for an acne treatment, you need to eat less soy as it can bind to minerals and lead to less zinc absorption. Then there are other minerals like copper and inorganic iron. They also come in the way of zinc for acne bio-availability. However this issue can be solved easily, unless of course you are suffering from copper toxicity. Try not to take copper more than 2-3 mg a day and also do not take inorganic iron supplements.

Too much of physical exertion may lead to an increased demand by the body for zinc and thus, when you are exercising, you need to also take more zinc for acne treatments.

Following these tips and zinc guidines should have you well on your way to beautiful skin in no time!

Natural Facial Masks and Home Recipes

Natural Free Skincare to Prevent Aging

By Van Le | Skin care has come a long way in recent years, and the numbers say it all.  Current estimates assert the skincare industry generates over $2 billion annually.  That’s not to say our mothers and grandmothers never took care of their complexion.  Many of the tips our mothers taught us still ring true today — in fact,  some of the most effective remedies for healthy skin have been passed down from generation to generation.  The following are easy, no-cost techniques to prevent premature skin aging.

Don’t Smoke

Smoking causes so much damage to the skin that the term “smokers’ face” was coined to describe the shallow lines and wrinkles caused by cigarettes.  Even more shocking, a study published in the British Medical Journal featured a doctor who could distinguish a non-smoker from someone who has been smoking for ten years or more based on their facial features alone.  A single cigarette contains thousands of toxins that seep into the bloodstream and affect the appearance of skin.   In addition, scientists have calculated that every cigarette takes ten minutes off your life.

Wear Sunglasses

Long before they became fashion statements, sunglasses served a humble purpose: to protect the eyes from the sun.  Skin near the eyes is extremely delicate, and since we can’t apply sunscreen to these areas, we need the UV protection provided by sunglasses.  Not wearing sunglasses can also cause you to squint, which can lead to wrinkles over time. And if you are out in the sun, don’t forget your sunscreen. Any organic compound with zinc oxide and lots of moisturizer will do the trick to protect the rest of your fave from harmful rays without that “white zinc look.”

Get Adequate Sleep

While  we sleep, our body generates new skin cells, repairs damaged ones and strengthens collagen.  Doctors recommend seven to eight hours of sleep each night for maximum performance during the day.  In addition to under-eye bags - the tell-all sign that you’ve been up all night - lack of sleep can cause skin to appear dull, puffy and wrinkled.

Sleep on your back

In a perfect world, we would get our beauty sleep every night.  However, in today’s fast-paced world, eight hours of sleep each night, every night is not always possible, therefore, it’s important to make the best of the time we do have to rest.  We are up and about at least 12 hours a day, and gravity can take its toll.  Sleeping on your back instead of stomach promotes circulation, and reduces wrinkles since your face is not buried in a pillow.

Limit Your Stress Level

Stress is an inevitable part of life, but not all stress is bad.  There are two kinds of stress: eustress and distress.  Eustress keeps us energized about life and stems from exciting events such as starting a new job, getting married or simply getting on a roller coaster ride.  Unfortunately, most of us are more familiar with distress (negative stress) which can weaken our immune system and cause hormonal changes that result in pimple breakouts.  Participating in stress-reducing activities such as exercise, spending time in nature and yoga is key in balancing eustress and distress.

Doing your best to implement these tips to prevent skin aging and overall health will keep you looking your best for years to come.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare and anti-aging, you can also link to http://naturalantiagingproducts.net/

Blue Light Therapy for Healing Acne & Skin Damage

By Van Le |  After trying countless of potions and lotions to no avail, some acne sufferers are turning to technology and hoping that blue light therapy, a new scientific advancement, will pave the way for acne-free skin. Considered a form of laser treatment, the procedure involves emitting a blue light source (with visible spectrum of 406 to 426 nm) to the affected areas. The high-intensity light kills the bacteria that can cause acne breakouts. Blue light therapy is approved by the U.S. Food and Drugs Administration as a legal and safe procedure for the treatment of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. As a result, it is a widely advertised and highly popular form of treatment among acne sufferers.

Unlike creams and ointments that treat acne on a topical level, blue light therapy targets bacteria underneath the skin, eliminating the problem from the root. It works by adding oxygen to skin cells, which leads to a chemical reaction inside acne bacteria, causing the bacteria to self-destruct. With fewer bacteria, the number of buildups and acne lesions begin to decrease. The treatment stems from the belief that sunlight reduces acne, but also emits dangerous UV rays that can lead to premature aging and cancer. Since blue light does not contain any UV rays, it provides all the benefits without any of the damage. Most patients report little to no negative side effects, and the treatment can be used on several parts of the body including the face, back and chest. In conjunction with blue light, some dermatologists recommend undergoing red light therapy since it helps nourish damaged tissues and speed up the production of acne-free skin.

Like other laser treatments, blue light therapy is most effective when administered in multiple sessions. Although the length and time of treatment varies, most patients undergo treatment sessions that typically last for 20 minutes and normally done twice a week for at least four weeks. The cost for blue light therapy can range from $50 to $150 for a single treatment, and up to $3000 for a full treatment package. Due to its cosmetic nature, it is not covered by most insurance plans.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare and anti-aging, you can also link to http://newbeautifulskin.com

Benefits of Zinc Sunscreen and Moisturizers

Zinc suncare has become a popular alternative for today’s health-conscious consumer.   According to a popular East Coast-based suncare company, the percentage of zinc added to the product determines it’s SPF factor.

For example, 15% Zinc added equals an SPF of 15, and 20.5% of Zinc added equals an SPF of 30. As you can see the scale isn’t linear. Also, they claim that as a natural sunblock Zinc far surpasses any synthetic based product due it’s ability to stay on the skin for a longer time and physically not allow the sun’s rays to penetrate the skin.

Non-Zinc based sunblocks work by “attempting” to “absorb” the sun’s rays, whereas Zinc based sunblocks work by totally (physically) blocking them.

All higher end Zinc based sunblock products contain in addition to Zinc, essential oils like, extra virgin olive oil, Jojoba oil, etc. None of the natural oils will clog pores when used properly as they mimic the skin own oil barrier closest.

Thus, Zinc concentrations in sunscreen and moisturizers match that of the SPF or “Sun Protection Factor.” High SPF formulas are water resistant, safe for children of all ages, block both UVA and UVB rays, and thoroughly moisturize while they protect your skin. These natural, physical barrier sunscreens are made with zinc oxide instead of chemicals.

SPF will remain strong after 40 minutes activity in the water or perspiring. For optimum protection, reapply sunscreen frequently, especially when in and out of the water.

According to the Environmental Working Group’s Safe Cosmetics Database, Zinc-based sunblocks are some the world’s safest and most effective sunscreens.

Benefits of Zinc Sunscreens and Moisturizers:

* Stays on the skin when you sweat or play in the water

* Won’t run and drip into your eyes when you sweat

* Allows your skin to breathe

* Is strong and effective enough to protect you from extreme conditions

* Low to no irritating ingredients.

Some Zinc-based sunscreens use micronized zinc as their sun-screening agent. Zinc Oxide is a mineral that provides broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays. It is also said to have anti-inflammatory properties and is considered the safest and most protective sunscreening ingredient. While non micronized zinc oxide leaves a strong residue on the skin, like white paint, micronized zinc oxide creates the same barrier in a form that appears far more transparent and less whitening when rubbed in.

Micronized zinc oxide is produced by high temperature processing of minerals that contain zinc. Some brands contain micronized zinc oxide, combined with an inert ingredient derived from silica. The result is a naturally protective product to protect you from the sun’s damaging rays.

Other sunscreens on the market contain chemical agents that do not provide broad spectrum protection, and many even contain chemical ingredients that are known toxins. So, be sure to read your label carefully!

What is the difference between “Physical Barrier” and “Chemical” Sunscreens?

Physical Barrier Sunscreens form a film on top of the skin that reflects or scatters UV light. Most physical barrier sunscreens contain either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

UV light is divided into three wavelength bands: UVA, UVB and UVC. UVA and UVB are the two that reach the earth and Physical Barrier sunscreens are effective at blocking both.

Chemical Sunscreens differ from physical barrier sunscreens as they absorb UV rays before they can do any damage. Usually, single chemical ingredients protect against either UVA or UVB, but not for both. So for broad-spectrum protection, you would need to choose a chemical sunscreen containing more than one active ingredient, most often two or three. Chemical sunscreens can be absorbed into the skin, are more likely to cause irritation or allergy, and can degrade over time.

Links to some helpful web sites regarding sun protection.

• The Environmental Working Group’s “Special Investigation on Nanotechnology & Sunscreens”
• The Environmental Protection Agency’s “Sunwise: The Burning Facts.”
• The “Cosmetic Safety Database” – for safety and efficacy of all your personal care products
• Learn more about skincare on the EWG’s Cosmetic Database.

Zinc Sun Protection and UV Rays

SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, is a measurement of how well a sunscreen will protect skin from UVB rays, the kind of radiation that causes sunburn and is thought to contribute to some types of skin cancer.

Example: If your skin would normally burn after 10 minutes in the sun, applying an SPF 15 sunscreen would allow you to stay in the sun without burning for approximately 150 minutes (a factor of 15 times longer). This is a rough estimate and depends on skin type, the intensity of sunlight, and the type of activity. But SPF isn’t quite that simple. The scale is not linear: SPF 30 actually only blocks 5% more UVB radiation than SPF 15. For best protection, experts do recommend a minimum SPF rating of 15, and applying sunscreen generously and frequently.

The SPF rating only tells you only about UVB protection, not about harmful UVA rays. UVA is the wavelength of sunlight that penetrates deeper into the skin without causing surface burning, but has the potential to release free radicals and perhaps cause skin melanoma and photo aging. Always choose sun protection that is broad spectrum - blocks both UVB and UVA wavelengths. Just because a sunscreen has a high SPF, it does not mean you are being protected from damaging UVA rays.

Zinc moisturizers and sunblocks with high levels SPF (15 or more) are broad spectrum: strong enough to prevent burning for a reasonable length of time with the power to block UVA radiation — something that many higher SPF products cannot match!
UVA Protection

UVA: Long-wave solar rays of 320-400 nm. Penetrate the skin more deeply (into the Dermis, 2nd layer of skin); cause photo aging, actinic damage (wrinkled, leathery, variously pigmented skin); and can contribute to skin cancers including melanoma. Rays are the same strength year-round.
UVB: Short-Wave solar rays of 290-320 nm. Penetrate only the epidermis; cause sunburn; and considered to be the main cause of basal and squamous cell carcinomas, as well as a significant factor in melanomas. Different strengths depending on Sun’s location, and can be lessened when deflected by clouds.

UVC: Reflected by the Ozone layer, does not reach the Earth.

Critical Wavelength: an international rating system for UVA protection. The point at which the sunscreen allows 10% of the rays to penetrate is defined as Critical Wavelength. A sunscreen with a critical wavelength over 370nm is considered by the FDA to provide excellent UVA protection.

Links to some helpful web sites regarding sun protection.
•    The Environmental Working Group’s “Special Investigation on Nanotechnology & Sunscreens”
•    The Environmental Protection Agency’s “Sunwise: The Burning Facts.”
•    The “Cosmetic Safety Database” – for safety and efficacy of all your personal care products

Choosing the Right Sunscreen

The skin has evolved to protect us from the harmful effects of ultraviolet light. Sunscreens were first developed to prevent sunburns by blocking UVB; they allowed us to prolong our time in the sun, but that resulted in increased exposure to UVA. Modern sunscreens attempt to block the whole spectrum of UV light, so are called broad spectrum. Not all so-called broad spectrum sunscreens protect skin from the whole range of UVA.

Negative Effects on the Skin:

Most of us know that sun exposure has immediate positive and negative effects on the skin. The positive effects include a sense of warmth and pleasure and Vitamin D production. The medium and longer term effects are negative and must also be recognised.

Short Term Effects:

• Sunburn, or tan
• Photosensitive rashes
• Drug and chemical photo toxicity and allergy reactions
• Light aggravated conditions

Negative Medium Term Effects:

• Photodamage (Click here to learn more.)
• Photoaging

Negative Longer Term Effects:

• Skin cancer (Click here to learn more.)
• Photoaging

A Comparison on UVA and UVB

UVA and UVB light have different characteristics.

UVA* (320-400nm)

• Levels are constant throughout the year
• Penetrates into the lower dermis
• Penetrates glass
• 95% of UVL is UVA
• May be important in causing melanoma
• Tans the skin
• Causes most of the aging effects seen in the skin
• Immunosuppressive
• Phototoxic reactions to drugs and chemicals
• Responsible for many photodermatoses

*It should be noted that sun-tanning beds use mainly UVA light. There is no such thing as a “safe” suntan. Recently the US FDA began investigating whether suntan beds should be illegal for anyone under the age of 18 years.

UVB (290-320nm)

• Amounts vary and increase in the summer, at noon, and on the equator
• Most only penetrates the epidermis
• Does not go through glass
• SPF of sunscreens only measures UVB blockage
• More carcinogenic than UVA
• Sunburns the skin
• Needed for Vitamin D production

Sunscreen Use

Key Points:

• Broad spectrum only should be used.
• SPF is only related to UVB protection and does not provide a reference to the UVA protection in the product.
• All sunscreens will have UVB protection, which is reflected in the SPF.
• If a skin sunburns in 10 minutes, a properly applied sunscreen SPF 15 means they will burn in 150minutes
• Physical screens reflect light whereas chemical screens absorb UV converting the energy into heat
• SPF15 blocks 87.5% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB.

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About the author:

Richard Thomas, MD, FRCPC is Assistant Professor of Clinical Dermatology, Department of Dermatology, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada.

Find the treatments for lines and wrinkles

As we age, the skin droops and develops wrinkles, lines and furrows. Depending on your skin type, you may find your skin to be pre-disposed to wrinkling. But thanks to diligent research and new advances, there are a number of solutions to combat facial lines.

Causes of facial lines

In addition to aging, facial lines can form because of the following:

• Sun damage (Fine lines and wrinkles arise because of irregular thickening of the dermis and because of a decrease in the amount of water held by the epidermis. caused mainly by sun damage.)
• Smoking
• Muscle movement / Dynamic lines (People tend to smile or frown more on one side than the other, or consistently sleep on the right or the left cheek. Crow’s feet around the eyes are due to smiling and activity of the eyelid muscles. Worry lines on the forehead are due to contraction of the muscle when raising the eyebrows)
• Gravity is responsible for folds in the skin

What treatment is available?

See your dermatologist for information about what might work well for you, which could include:

• Topical agents which produce collagen in the skin, Vitamin A acids (Tazarotene, Tretinoin, Adapelene) and Vitamin C or alpha Hydroxy acids
• Microdermabrasion has a very modest benefit for very fine lines
• Injectionable fillers such as Restylane (Hyaluronic acid)
• Botox for dynamic lines (Check-out www.BotoxFacts.ca)
• Lasers. Traditionally the CO2 and Erbium lasers (ablative) were used to essentially peel off a layer of skin and then allow a new skin to grow in. Results were impressive but the healing time of many weeks and sometimes months of redness has reduced the use of this approach. Patients with darker skin would often end up with darker skin and those with very fair skin sometimes white skin
• Plastic surgery is usually used to improve skin folds rather than fine lines and wrinkles
• The newer non-ablative laser treatments do not have the down time of the older methods nor do they have the degree of improvement. Repeat treatments with lasers that essentially produce a heating of the dermis, which in turn encourages collagen production, Lasers such as the Nd: Yag, V Beam and Smooth Beam may be used.
• The Fraxel laser is a modification of an Erbium laser that just treats multiple small pinpoint areas of skin allowing a quick recovery after a treatment. We will be hearing more of this in the future
• Cosmetic facial surgery

Prevent it before it happens

You can take steps to protect your skin. You’ve heard it before, and it’s worth repeating:

• Avoid excessive time in the sun, and always use a sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher
• Avoid smoking and exposure to second-hand smoke or other pollutants. Smoking increases facial lines and wrinkles and delays skin healing.
• Exercise. It’s good for the skin as well as for your general health.
• Aging skin feels and looks better when moisturizers are applied regularly. These improve the water-holding capacity of the skin. Choose one that feels nice to apply, doesn’t sting or burn or provoke acne
• Use tepid or warm water and a non-soap cleanser to wash your face twice daily
• Drink plenty of water to rehydrate internally. Because moisture content is related to water, not oil or grease, oily-skinned women need to rehydrate as conscientiously as their dry-skinned counterparts
• Eat a balanced diet that includes plenty of fruits and vegetables
• Generally what is healthy for your heart and brain is good for your skin

By: Richard Thomas, MD, FRCPC

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