Zinc Oxide Creams for Natural Skin Care

Zinc oxide moisturizer is definitely one of the handiest and most versatile products you can have in your medicine cabinet.

When you think of zinc oxide moisturizer or cream, one the first thoughts that may come into your mind might be the lifeguard. He sits at his post with a generous coating of white zinc cream covering his nose to help protect him from sunburn. This is without a doubt the most common way zinc oxide cream is used. As a matter of fact, there are many skin experts who believe that zinc oxide sunscreen (even though it’s not very attractive) is superior to today’s chemical sunscreens at blocking and absorbing the dangerous UVAs and UVBs.

What you may not be aware of is that this particular natural skin cream is a valuable addition to your medicine cabinet as a treatment for a wide variety of skin conditions, complications, and disorders. As an example, zinc oxide cream is extremely effective in the treatment of acne. It has many benefits that are specific to the relief of acne conditions. It will reduce inflammation, It will decrease the production of excessive oils, it will draw out infectious toxins, and It will increases the healing process of your skin.

There are a lot of Mothers who use zinc oxide cream to prevent and treat diaper rash. This versatile cream is also great for treating minor cuts, burns and abrasions. Dandruff and dermatitis are also known to respond quite well to the use of zinc oxide. It is also used to treat athlete’s foot, as well as poison ivy, poison oak, and irritating sumac rashes. It works great at suppressing the unbearable symptoms of both itching and inflammation.

How to apply zinc oxide cream. Apply it generously on your skin. Leave it uncovered. Do not use any kind of bandage, unless your Doctor tells you to do so. Before you use zinc oxide cream on infants or children, consult your pediatrician. While reactions with other types of medications are rarely reported, they can occur. If you happen to have a skin cream or other topical lotion already on the affected site, it is in your best interest to clean this area before you begin applying the zinc cream.

The number one reason why zinc oxide cream is so effective is the hundreds of enzymes that depend on this trace mineral in order to function properly. Zinc can be found in almost every cell in the human body. It also contains powerful antioxidant properties and it is an important factor regarding your immune response system. Remember, your skin is the largest organ in the human body, and it absorbs all of the nutrients in zinc oxide cream directly through the skin.

When used properly, you can definitely see that zinc oxide cream is a great remedy to have on hand in your medicine cabinet.

Zinc Moisturizers Are Best For Sun Protection

If you are tired of putting chemicals on your face or using products to protect you from the sun, only to find out they irritate your skin, why not try a Zinc Moisturizer?

Zinc Oxide is the main ingredient in the zinc moisturizers and many all-natural sun screens. Unlike chemical versions of suncare that “block” harmful UV (UVA and UVB) rays with a layer of chemicals, Zinc Oxide actually REFLECTS harmful UV rays with microscopic crystalline formations. Since these crystalline formations are found in nature, they are much less harmful to your skin.

You might already be using a form of zinc oxide if you have a small child - it’s the exact stuff that you can find in their diaper cream to prevent diaper rash. So, you know if its safe for a baby, its safe for your face and body too!

New versions of Zinc moisturizers and creams have been formulated in recent years and hardly ever resemble that stuff you saw on the beach in the 80’s.  Unlike the white “lifeguard nose” the new blends are light and fresh, masking them easy to apply and blend in.There are even lighter version being formed today that include “micro-fine” zinc oxide compounds that show little to no white tint at all.

So, before you head out into the sun today, be sure to try a natural zinc cream or moisturizer to protect your face!  As always, remember to use natural sun protection to keep the rest of your body protected too. Protective clothing, including hats, sun glasses and long sleeves can do much to prevent your skin from developing age spots, wrinkles and even harmful skin cancers.

Always remember to wear sunscreen, even when you think you don’t need it, the suns UV rays are powerful and can penetrate even the thickest clouds.

Natural Facial Skin Protection from the Sun

Zinc Sun Care and Summer Skin

Summer is rapidly approaching and it is time to once again stock up on sunscreens and hats. Sunrays can have a detrimental effect on the skin, so it is very important to protect the skin from too much sun exposure. Sun damage to the skin can show up almost immediately and will also appear over time. Different sunrays have different effects on the skin. A great way to remember the difference is by the letter A or B. UVA rays or ‘aging rays’ cause wrinkles, pigmentation and cancer. UVB rays or ‘burning rays’ are the rays that cause a tan and sunburn. These rays also age the skin but do not penetrate as deep as UVA rays.

To protect the skin from harmful sun exposure it is important to use a sunscreen that has both UVA and UVB protection. These sunscreens are commonly known as dual spectrum sunscreens. It is also important to check for ingredients that absorb and block sunrays. Ingredients such as oxybenzo absorb sunrays while zinc oxide actually blocks the rays. It is also important to look for sunscreens that are non comedogenic and non acnegenic which means that the sunscreen will not clog pores or promote acne. A SPF or sun protection factor of 15 or higher is recommended. A generous application is needed in order to attain protection; most people do not apply sunscreen liberally enough.

The SPF indicates how long you can be exposed to the sun before burning. For example, if your skin will burn within 10 minutes of sun exposure with no sun protection you can be exposed to the sun for 150 minutes with a sun protection factor of 15 before burning.

To estimate how long you can be exposed to the sun before burning, multiply the probable time you can be exposed to the sun with no sun protection before burning and multiply it by the SPF on the label of the sunscreen. Multiple applications throughout the day are necessary in order to be protected, and it is recommended to reapply every two hours, as sweating and water activities may rub off the sun screen. Sunscreens do more than just protect skin from burning, so reapplication is necessary to shield the skin from other harmful damage like premature age spots, wrinkles and fine lines.

Regular sunscreen use will protect the skin from burning, premature aging and possible skin cancer. It is important to make sunscreen use as much a part of your daily routine as brushing your teeth. As summer is approaching it is even more important to wear sunscreen as the sunrays are stronger and more harmful during this time of year.

Natural Facial Treatments for Adult Acne

When one thinks of acne, a teenager may come to mind first. No one expects to have acne as an adult but it is more common than one might think. On average 50 percent of women and 25 percent of men are affected by adult acne. Adult acne is usually attributed to hormonal shifts, allergic reactions to skincare products or medications. The good news is many new treatments and procedures are available.

The cause of adult acne remains unknown, but is often attributed to genetics and hormonal changes. Contributing factors can include: side effects from certain medications, cosmetic products with high oil contents, excessive sweating, diet, stress, pregnancy, and menopause. An acne lesion, blemish or clogged pore is caused when bacteria multiply excessively within the hair follicle. An oil-releasing blockage then develops from the sebaceous gland and enlarged sebaceous oil glands produce an overabundance of oil. Blockages of bacteria and oil then build, leading to adult acne problems such as pimples, inflammation, cysts, and scarring. Adult acne most often appears on the face; however, it can appear on the arms, legs, buttocks, and torso.

Adult acne is a fairly new problem as adult acne has just recently become an epidemic. Acne previously had been a concern of teens and young adults. Dermatological and esthetic treatments for adults will likely be very similar to those used to treat teens. To prevent acne, hormonal and life style changes, such as diet, may be incorporated. The findings have suggested that a lifetime of exposure to hormone enriched foods and medication may be a main culprit in this new wide concern of adult acne.

The appropriate treatment for acne varies depending on each individual. Adult acne treatments include ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retin-a, accutane, sulfur, tetracycline and/or a variety of over the counter medications. However, there’s more than medicine to treating adult acne. To obtain the best results treatments should include not only skin care products that target acne bacteria, but make changes that affect the body’s internal system. A multifaceted approach of treatments, behaviors, and diet is often most effective. Here are a few simple strategies to help you combat adult acne:

•    Consult your doctor about hormonal changes
•    Follow a daily skin care regimen
•    Protect skin from pollution and environmental damage
•    Avoid touching your face
•    Avoid exposure to sun and excessive cold
•    Select non-oil based cosmetic products
•    Eat a well-balanced diet

Natural remedies can also work alone or in combination with professional assistance in clearing adult acne. As stated earlier, diet is a very important factor in adult acne. A diet rich in colorful fruits and vegetables, help fight free radicals and skin damage that may be left behind after the acne has cleared. Ointment or creams that are rich in Vitamin E can fight against bacteria and sooth the sensitized acne are. Tea tree oil and herbal extracts have been known to clear acne by fighting bacteria and regulating oil production. Zinc and Zinc Oxide are also excellent to reduce acne breakouts and prevent acne due to their anti-microbial properties.

Herbal extracts or herbs to look for in topical or ingested formulas include burdock, yellow dock, cleaver, and sarsaparilla. As adult acne has been a fairly new area of study for dermatologists and estheticians, it is best to follow a treatment plan that is unique to your severity of acne.

Zinc Skin Care, Moisturizers and Sunscreens

You may have first seen zinc on a summer day at the beach or your local swimming pool. Lifeguards traditionally use the thick, white cream to cover their nose and cheeks to prevent sunburn. You may have learned then, that it was the strongest sunblock available – it just wasn’t very attractive.

In the eighties, zinc sun protection got a makeover, with bight neon colors. Applying wacky colors all over your face was fun and it blocked out the sun’s rays. Almost completely, and it stayed on - almost too well.

Today, thankfully, formulations have improved and zinc is no longer the eyesore it once was. It does, however, still protect your skin from sun damage and wrinkles and recent findings have shown zinc offers anti-microbial benefits that also reduce acne and breakouts.

So, what exactly is zinc and how does it work?

Zinc is a natural mineral, minced and refined to a fluffy white powder. Zinc becomes Zinc Oxide after the mineral is oxidized. Oxidation allows the mineral to be slightly changed giving it new properties. Zinc Oxide is used widely in cosmetics and natural skin care products and is quickly replacing the use of Titanium Oxide in sunscreens.

Because zinc is completely natural, it is an excellent ingredient to use in natural skin care products and beauty treatments. Before many of its

beneficial properties were known, Zinc Oxide was initially used in cosmetics as a whitening agent to moisturizing lotions, facial creams and most sunscreens.

Zinc Oxide has been the ingredient of choice for sunscreens, sun protection and cosmetics. Zinc Oxide is categorized as a physical sunscreen, therefore SPF labels are not given to the mineral. SPF or sun protected factor only relates to chemical sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens such as PABA and Oxybenzone absorb the suns rays; where as Zinc Oxide actually blocks the rays. While some chemically-based sun protection products include zinc, they can not claim zinc as their primary component and must be labeled as such.

How does Zinc Actually “block” the Sun’s Rays?

Zinc Oxide works much like a diamond to bend (or refract) light. It is the only known element that can block both UVA (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays). Zinc Oxide has been approved and labeled by the FDA as safe for the skin as sun protection. It is important to note that Zinc Oxide is not an organic compound as it has undergone oxidation. Zinc Oxide should be 20 to 25 percent of ingredient in cosmetic or sunscreen to properly inhibit sun damage to the skin and prevent wrinkles from forming. As we all should know by now, one of the primary causes of aging skin and wrinkles, is the sun.

If blocking sun rays, preventing wrinkles and aging skin weren’t enough, pure zinc has also been found to be very effective in the treatment and care of acne prone skin. Zinc regulates production of oil glands and hormone levels, two main triggers of acne. Zinc also helps absorb Vitamin A which promotes healing and fights bacteria. As with any acne treatment results may vary depending on diet and other environmental factors. It is always important to consult a dermatologist prior to any acne treatment. Zinc is commonly used in ointments for diaper rash, minor scrapes and burns, dry scalp and irritated skin.

In addition to the benefits on the skin zinc helps maintain many healthy body functions. Zinc plays a role in strengthening the immune system by assisting white blood cell development, protecting the body form infection. Lack of zinc to the body can result in a week immune system. As zinc plays a vital role in the immune system it is imperative to acquire the proper amount of zinc while pregnant. Zinc helps reduce inflammation and infection. Proper amounts of zinc in a diet have shown to contribute to proper growth, strength, and endurance. Zinc is also involved in stimulating many enzymes which play an essential role in metabolism. Zinc has been found to benefit the inside and outside health of our bodies and can be found in many topical creams, like Vivoderm’s zinc repairing cream, as well as in many nutrient rich foods.

According to the American Zinc Association, zinc seals and protects the skin. “Zinc is essential for healthy skin. As a drying agent and astringent, zinc oxide has been used for generations to soothe diaper rash and relieve itching. And zinc is a natural sun screen, protecting chapped lips and skin from the sun’s harmful rays. Zinc sulfate is effective in treating some cases of acne. And in a water-based solution, zinc sulfate helps remedy cold sores. Zinc also improves healing of wounds, like surgical incisions, burns and other skin irritations. Used as an anti-inflammatory, zinc soothes skin and skin tissue. Poison ivy, sunburn, blisters and gum disease are all improved when treated with zinc. It is even a natural insect repellent. And zinc stimulates the transport of Vitamin A from the liver to the skin, helping to protect body tissue from damage.”

So, remember, if you are interested in protecting your skin from the sun, preventing wrinkles and aging skin and reducing your acne breakouts – zinc might just be the all in one treatment for you. Look on the back of cosmetic and food labels to see if you are getting the benefits of zinc in your diet and beauty routine

Skin Care Herbs and Minerals and Their Benefits

Popular Herbs Used in Skin Care and Their Benefits: Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Lavender and Rosemary

Today skin care and cosmetics are increasingly going natural. You may have heard that herbs and oils are commonly used in skin care and cosmetics; but, you may not know why or what purpose they serve. why, and what do the do? Four very common and popular herbs that are used in the form of oil or gels are chamomile, Aloe Vera, lavender, and rosemary. All provide unique benefits for the skin and body.

The benefits of chamomile for the skin and body range from calming effects to healing. Recent and on-going research has identified

chamomile’s specific benefits as anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-allergenic. Chamomile is most often recognized as an herbal tea; however, chamomile is present in many skin care products. Chamomile’s active ingredients extracted from the flower are essential oils and flavonoids. Essential oils help to calm and relax irritated skin. Essential oils have also been found to be beneficial to treat and sooth acne prone skin. Flavonoids – or plant metabolites- are rich in anti oxidants that help the body repair and heal damaged skin, as well as fight free radicals, which create damage to bodily cells. Chamomile has few side effects and is effective and beneficial to the skin topically or if ingested.

Aloe Vera contains numerous, minerals, vitamin, enzymes, and natural sugars that help with inflammation. Aloe Vera is commonly known for its healing properties, which explains its popular use in skin care. Aloe Vera aids in the healing of skin burns and cuts and moisturizes and softens skin. Aloe Vera is used in skin care products to help with dry sensitive skin as the plant has unique healing and soothing properties. Taken internally, Aloe Vera has been found to regulate digestion, which in turn builds healthy skin from the inside out. Aloe Vera is available as a gel, spray, lotion, juice, cream and in the form of a capsule. Aloe Vera is most commonly found in skin care gels or creams.

Lavender has many uses in skin care that include aiding skin repair, stimulating cell growth, reducing inflammation, preventing scarring and pigmentation, regulating oil production, and reducing pain. Lavender also works as antiseptic or antibacterial agent and is considered an essential oil. Due to its extensive benefits to the skin, lavender is often found in skin care or facial masks formulated to treat acne prone skin.

Rosemary can be used as an essential oil just like chamomile and lavender. Rosemary and lavender are actually found in the same herbal family. Rosemary tones the skin, helping to even out skin tone and texture, while reliving dryness. Rosemary strengthens capillaries and is good to use on aging skin. Rosemary is found in skin care cleansers, face masks, toners and creams.

Zinc for Skin

Zinc is one element that is essential for healthy skin. In addition, to wound healing, zinc acts as an astringent and may help in the treatment of acne among other benefits.

Wound Healing

zinc facial cream

One benefit of zinc for skin is in the area of wound healing. Oral zinc supplements help heal bed sores, skin ulcers, cold sores, canker sores, surgical incisions, burns, and a variety of other skin irritations. Topical treatments are also used for wound healing.

Zinc is a mineral that the body requires for the synthesis of collagen, which is a requirement for the healing of skin wounds. Zinc is also a component in the proper functioning of enzymes that are required by the body to repair skin wounds.

Mild Astringent

The benefit of zinc as a mild astringent is well noted. An astringent is a chemical substance that shrinks, constricts, or tightens body tissues. Zinc oxide has this mild astringent property. It acts as a skin-drying agent and can act as a skin anti-inflammatory. Zinc oxide also helps sooth the skin from itching, rashes, and moist skin conditions such as diaper rash.

There are many other herbs used in skin care and cosmetics today-most in the form of essential oils or extracts- and all can have different or positive effects on the skin and body. Herbs and oils have been used to heal for many centuries and now are being utilized for safe, natural ways to treat skin conditions and maintain a healthy complexion.

by Tiffany Oney

Zinc Sunscreen, Sun Protection and Suncare Tips

When you go to the HOT part of the country they have every kind of sunscreen, sunblock, And even pink & green zinc oxide. Here is some more information about sun protection.

Common questions about sun safety

During which months do I need to take sun safety precautions?
You should protect yourself from early spring right through the fall. People often get sunburns in late April and May because they don’t think the sun is strong enough to burn if they can’t feel its heat.

At what times should I use sun safety precautions?
Between 11 am and 4 pm. The sun’s radiation is strongest from 12 noon to 2 pm.  Why do I need to wear a hat in the sun?
Two of the three most common skin cancers appear on the face, head and neck.  Almost all of these tumours are caused by sun exposure over a long period of time.  Protect these areas, including the ears, by wearing a broad-brimmed (more than 8 cm or 3 inches) or legionnaire-style hat with a back flap.

Source: Canadian Dermatology Association. More information is available online at www.dermatology.ca.

Look for these four things in your sunscreen before buying and applying.

1. Check the label to make sure your sunscreen offers UVA and UVB protection. Both UVA and UVB are part of the sun’s ultraviolet radiation (UVR) emission, and both are linked to sunburns and long-term skin damage.

2. Your sunscreen should offer a high sun protection factor (SPF) for UVB protection.  More and more consumers now are looking for higher SPFs than ever before. For example, a sunscreen that offers a SPF 15 allows you to stay out in the sun about 15 times longer without burning. Banana Boat Suncare has just introduced two excellent products with SPF 50 in a convenient spray format. Banana Boat Kids’ products are also available in sprays and lotions with a SPF range of 30 to 50, and as a bonus, the products are tear free. And no, applying a sunscreen with SPF 8 in the morning and SPF 15 in the afternoon, will not add up to SPF 23. Choose the SPF that offers your skin type the best protection.

3. Ideally, it’s best to re-apply sunscreen every one - two hours, especially if you’ve been swimming. As a rough guide, the average adult should use one ounce (about the size of a golf ball) of sunscreen over his or her entire body for each application.

4. Your sunscreen should enhance your skin, not irritate it. If you have sensitive skin, it’s best to test a small patch for 48 hours (before your vacation) to see if you develop any kind of reaction.

Adverse reactions to sunscreens

Contact dermatitis, both irritant and allergic, and phototoxic and photo allergic reactions have been reported following the use of chemical sunscreens. The most common sunscreen that cause contact dermatitis is PABA and its esters. However, reactions to the newer generation sunscreens, especially those with broader spectrum of UV coverage such as benzophenones, cinnamates and methoxy dibenzoylmethane, have also been reported.

Contact dermatitis and photoallergic contact dermatitis to different sunscreens can occur at the same time and should be explained by a combination of cross-reactions and coupling allergy.  Cross-sensitization reactions with other sunscreens and with chemicals with similar chemical structures do not occur routinely. Patients who are sensitized to p-phenylenediamine, aniline, procaine, benzocaine, sulfonamides may develop cross-sensitization to a PABA sunscreen. It is also interesting to note that cross-sensitization between padimate 0 and padimate A which are esters of PABA do not occur but patients sensitive to PABA derivatives can also be sensitive to p-amino benzoic acid.

Zinc oxides and titanum dioxide used in physical sunscreen formulations do not produce contact sensitization, phototoxicity or photoallergy. Should such adverse reactions occur, the excipients in the physical sunscreen should be suspected.

Protecting Your Skin with Antioxidants and Zinc

If you want to protect your skin, think antioxidants. These have gained a great deal of attention in recent years, and for good reason. They work to combat the ‘free radical cells’ that damage your skin.

What are free radicals?

Created when oxygen produces by-products during normal cellular metabolism. More accurately, this reactive oxygen ‘steals’ electrons from proteins, DNA and cell membranes, damaging tissue. If left unchecked, free radicals may cause heart damage, cancer, cataracts, and a weak immune system. Free radicals may be involved with aging of tissue; and coupled with sun damage, could promote skin cancers.

While free radicals are produced by normal human metabolism, they can be increased by smoking, alcohol, exposure to heavy metals, and radiation. Antioxidants counteract this process by binding to the free radicals, transforming them into non-damaging compounds, or repairing cellular damage. It would seem logical, then, to include antioxidants in your daily regime.

To the rescue

Antioxidants are the antidote to free radicals. They can be taken orally or applied directly to the skin.

What are antioxidants?

In order for antioxidants to have any benefit they have to be in sufficient quantities in the tissue. Common antioxidants that are taken orally, or eaten, are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Selenium and the carotenoids, (fruits and vegetables having the most deeply or brightly-colored fruits and vegetables, i.e.: spinach, carrots, red bell peppers, tomatoes).

What are topical antioxidants?

Topical antioxidants may reduce UVA damage. UVA is the wavelength that mostly produces visible signs of sun damage and has some carcinogenic effect.
Topical antioxidants that have been studied in creams or ointments are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Glutathione, Lipoic Acid, Coenzyme Q10, Soy- isoflavanone. It has been shown that combining some of these have additional benefit.   Others such as selenium, zinc and silymarin have not been studied for their effects, but topical zinc has been proven to block out harmful UVA and UVB rays - the leading cuase of skin aging and skin cancers.

Which are the antioxidants?

Antioxidants can be divided into those that are fat soluble and those that are water soluble.
Fat soluble is:

* Vitamin E, coenzyme Q10 and lipoic acid

Water soluble is:

* Glutathione and Vitamin C

Vitamin E:

* The antioxidant effect can be more effective if combined with other antioxidants i.e.: coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin C
* Is found in fresh vegetables, oils, seeds, nuts, cumin, and soy. Animal studies have shown that Vitamin E protects against UVB damage, although this effect has not been proved in humans. (UVB is much more carcinogenic than UVA, and causes sunburns).
* Commonly used to help wound healing. However, studies in human burns did not show Vitamin E helping and about a 1/5 of patients reacted to vitamin E with a contact dermatitis).
* Topical Vitamin E is commonly used by pregnant women in the belief that it prevents stretch marks. There is no evidence for this, and sometimes an acute allergic dermatitis is produced causing an inflamed uncomfortable rash.

Coenzyme Q10 (also known as Ubiquinone)

* Found in fish and shell fish
* It penetrates well into skin, and is claimed to reduce the breakdown of collagen after exposure to UVA light
* It may reduce the depth of wrinkles but this has not been confirmed in studies

Lipoic Acid

* This is well absorbed into the skin, and converted quickly into dihydrolipoic acid in the cells. It has an anti-inflammatory effect. A three per cent application of Lipoid Acid has been shown to reduce redness in the skin after UVB exposure.

Glutathione

* This antioxidant is produced by amino acids, eysteine, glycine and glutamic acid

Vitamin C

* Also known as Ascorbic Acid
* Oral Vitamin C improves wound healing and may enhance the immune system
* The lack of vitamin C produces scurvy, which produces fragile skin and bleeding gums

Topical Vitamin C

* reduces sun damage, fine wrinkles, and may lighten dark skin pigmentation

Green Tea (Tea polyphenols)

When used topically as a cream

* Has shown to reduce the carcinogenic effect of certain chemicals and ultraviolet rays on the skin of animals. We are still awaiting good evidence for benefit in humans
* Produces anti-inflammatory effects
* Reduces the redness caused by UV light

DHEA (Dehydroepiandrosterone)

* Occurs naturally in our bodies
* When taken orally, DHEA is a powerful antioxidant that may have an anti-aging effect and help thicken skin and reduce pigmentation
* It is not know if there are any long-term negative effects from oral injection

Soy-isoflavones

* When used topically it may increase collagen and decrease redness and damage from ultraviolet rays
* For more information about caring for your skin, visit the rest of this site.

A Scientific Look at Moisturizers (pt.1)

Moisturizers are widely used products that are important in many dermatologic and cosmetic skin therapies. They contain varying combinations of emollients, occlusives, and humectants to achieve their beneficial effects, and there is an overwhelming number of formulations available. To develop a rational approach for prescribing moisturizers, commercially available products can be categorized on the basis of application site.

There is a vast array of moisturizers available on the market today and consumer demand for these products is growing. These products range from value brands that provide basic moisturization to luxury therapeutics with claims of anti-aging benefits. A recent US study found that moisturizers are the third most commonly recommended OTC topical skin product (13.4%) behind hydrocortisone (27.6%) and anti-infectives (23.4%).

What Are Moisturizers?

The term moisturizer is a marketing term with little or no scientific meaning. Consumers see moisturizers as actively increasing the water content of the skin. Dermatologists see moisturizers as bland oleaginous substances that are applied to the skin by rubbing. The term “moisturizer” does not necessarily imply that moisture or water is being added to the skin. Moisturizers are a key component of basic skin care especially when there is alteration of the epidermal barrier and reduced water content in the epidermis.
They are used to restore the barrier function of the epidermis, to cover tiny fissures in the skin, provide a soothing protective film, and increase the water-content of the epidermis. They may, thus, slow evaporation of the skin’s moisture, thereby maintaining hydration and improving the appearance and tactile properties of dry and aging skin. Newer products claim to have other properties such as anti-aging, skin-firming, anticellulite, and sun-protectant effects.

How Do Moisturizers Work?

For many years, epidermal water content has been known to be crucial for skin plasticity and the prevention of “dry skin”. Traditionally, moisturization was believed to inhibit transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by occlusion. Water originates in the deeper epidermal layers and moves upward to hydrate cells in the stratum corneum (SC), eventually being lost to evaporation.

The SC architecture is the most important factor in water flux and retention in the skin, and in overall level of moisturization. The four key processes for the formation and functioning of the SC are the corneocyte process, SC lipid process, natural moisturizing factor (NMF) process, and desquamation process. Corneocytes are the physical barrier of the SC and, when hydrated, contribute to elasticity. The lipid bilayers of the SC function as a moisture barrier and although they prevent the entry of many chemicals, they are the means of entry for most topically applied substances. The NMF is found within corneocytes and is a mix of hygroscopic molecules that, by helping maintain hydration in the corneocyte, keep the SC hydrated. Half of the NMF is amino acids derived from the protein filaggrin in keratinocytes, and the other half is salts, including lactates, urea, and electrolytes. Production of NMF is directly related to external humidity. In desquamation, corneodesmosomes are degraded by water-dependent hydrolytic agents. When there is low moisture in the SC, these enzymes do not work efficiently. Corneocytes accumulate on the skin surface producing the signs of dry skin, e.g., when the moisture content is less than 10%, and when there is loss of continuity of the SC.

The moisturizing treatment involves repairing the skin barrier, retaining/increasing water content, reducing TEWL, restoring the lipid barriers’ ability to attract, hold and redistribute water, and maintaining skin integrity and appearance. Moisturizers perform these functions by acting as humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Moisturizers containing collagen and other proteins, i.e., keratin and elastin, claim to rejuvenate the skin by replenishing its essential proteins but whether or not they have any effect on skin hydration is questionable. Moisturizers also act to reduce skin friction and increase skin hydration by providing water directly to the skin from their water phase and by increasing occlusion, as measured as a decrease in TEWL. Loden suggests that skin care products not only form an inert, epicutaneous layer, but that they also penetrate and influence the structure and function of the skin.

Moisturizers have little effect on the mechanical properties (i.e., distensibility, hysteresis, and elasticity) of the skin but do increase skin hydration significantly, as shown by an increased skin capacitance.10 When moisturizers are used to improve skin plasticity it is suggested that lipid-rich formulations be used.

Emollients

Emollients, which are mainly lipids and oils, hydrate and improve the appearance of the skin by contributing to skin softness, enhanced flexibility, and smoothness. The “skin slip” or lubricity of some moisturizers, contributes to consumer satisfaction and product preference. Consumers desire smooth skin following moisturizer application. Emollients serve to fill the cracks between clusters of desquamating corneocytes and are not usually occlusive unless applied heavily.

Long chain saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetic formulations. They exert their benefits through effects on the skin barrier, partially through improved repair, and on permeability. Examples include stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic, and lauric, which can be found in palm oil, coconut oil, and wool fat. A sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil reduced clinical signs of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced irritation. Other lipids (e.g., fish oil, petrolatum, shea butter, and sunflower seed oil) had no effect on the degree of irritation. Loden and Andersson suggested that canola oil assisted the skin in supplying the damaged barrier with adequate lipids. Essential fatty acids (i.e., linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids) influence skin physiology and pathology via their effects on skin barrier functions, eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling.

Next article will focus on emollients, occlusives, and humectants and what an ideal moisturizer should be….

J. N. Kraft, BSc (Hons)1 and C. W. Lynde, MD, FRCPC2
1Faculty of Medicine, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
2University Health Network (Western Division) and Department of Dermatology, University of Toronto, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Zinc Alternatives and Organic Skin Care

As consumers grow weary and suspicious of excessive chemical ingredients in their modern beauty products, herbal constituents and organic skincare continue to be a top alternative.

Current scientific studies have shown natural ingredients like Chamomile to contain healing and anti-inflammatory properties when applied topically, rendering old chemical formulations unnecessary. Indeed, analysis of many common herbs reveal that they too are loaded with antioxidants, vitamins, enzymes and proteins as well as anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-septic properties.

As a result of this rediscovered wealth of herbal healing, spas and skin care salons now focus on using more naturally derived skin care products. Natural products also tend to be safer and less toxic to our bodies as well as the environment.

The best organic skin care products contain carefully designed blends of healing herbs that use the actual plant constituents thus preserving their unrefined and natural characteristics.

Some examples of natural skin care ingredients include jojoba, safflower oil, rose hip seed oil, shea butter, beeswax, witch hazel, aloe vera, tea tree oil, and chamomile. Many of these natural ingredient combinations can be tailored specifically to the individual’s skin type or skin condition.

Natural skin care goes beyond the application of products on one’s skin. It also pertains to a holistic philosophy surrounding the care of one’s body. This includes the belief that what is ingested will affect all aspects of health, including the health of skin. People who use natural skin care products are less concerned with artificial beauty enhancements, as they feel that natural beauty is healthy beauty.

In modern skincare products, formaldehyde and parabens are commonly used preservatives and can provoke allergic reactions. Although the preservatives are needed to maintain product shelf life and only minute amounts are present in any given product, many products contain these same chemicals, including skin care products, makeup, medications, antiperspirants, toothpaste, and foods.

A note for those prone to allergic reactions

If you suffer from sensitive, allergic skin or severe dry skin, you may be among those who will have a problem or reaction to these chemical-laden products.

Vice President Noushin Adhami, stated, “Vivoderm would like all natural skincare consumers to understand - just because a product is labeled “natural,” does not make it any less potent or prone to cause an allergic reaction. Of course chemical substances have a greater chance of causing an allergy or toxic reactions, but you should always be aware of the products you are using and potential reactions you may have.”

A good example of this can be chemical sunscreens vs. natural zinc-based ones. Chemical Sunscreens differ from physical barrier sunscreens as they absorb UV rays before they can do any damage. Usually, single chemical ingredients protect against either UVA or UVB, but not for both. So for broad-spectrum protection, you would need to choose a chemical sunscreen containing more than one active ingredient, most often two or three. Chemical sunscreens can be absorbed into the skin, are more likely to cause irritation or allergy, and can degrade over time.

The FDA recommends understanding the ingredient label and says, “There is no list of ingredients that can be guaranteed not to cause allergic reactions, so consumers who are prone to allergies should pay careful attention to what they use on their skin.”

It is your role as an informed consumer to carefully read the labels for all products that come into contact with your skin, whether internally or externally. Assure that they don’t contain the listed ingredients that you must avoid. Your skin barrier does a lot to protect you naturally, repay the favor and feed it nourishing chemical-free products whenever you can.

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